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The Gilded
Age Returns to
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by Renee WrightJust off the coast of Georgia, beyond the fabled Marshes of Glynn, the Jekyll Island Club sits amid moss-hung live oaks. One hundred years ago, the tycoons of the times - names that include Vanderbilt, Pulitzer, Roosevelt, Astor, Gould, Macy, Goodyear and Morgan - walked its shaded paths. This was their getaway from the strains of city life, their refuge from harsh northern winters, an enclave both exclusive and inaccessible. Every year, between the months of December and April, the rich and famous arrived at Jekyll with their families to enjoy "the simple life."They hunted in the island's thick stands of forest, picnicked on the pristine white beach, went fishing in the protected waters of the inland waterway. With their children in tow, they biked or rode horseback along Jekyll's many miles of sandy trails. In the evening, they dined and danced in the Clubhouse's elegant dining room. Today, much remains the same on Jekyll Island.Remarkably, the splendid old Clubhouse, opened in 1888, still stands, surrounded by cottages built by prominent families. Guests today enjoy the Olympic-size pool and the tennis courts used by club members in the Roaring Twenties. Nature hikes have replaced hunting, but the beach remains unspoiled, the fishing fine; bikes and horse-drawn carriages still roam the island's shady lanes. Even in the 21st century, life continues at a more leisurely pace on this remote outpost of Georgia's Golden Isles. However, Jekyll is no longer as exclusive, nor as inaccessible, as it once was.In the late 1940s, the State of Georgia acquired the island and, along with it, the Jekyll Island Club, badly neglected after being closed during World War II. The state built a causeway to the island, previously accessible only by boat, opening it to the public in 1954. Hotels and cottages soon lined the beachfront. But on the marshes side of the island, the buildings of the Club, forgotten by most visitors, slowly decayed amid the drooping Spanish moss. With the arrival of the nation's bicentennial, however, interest in history revived. In 1978, the hotel and its surrounding buildings were designated a National Historic Landmark, and in the mid-80s, a group of private investors reopened the Clubhouse as a four-star resort. Selected as a Historic Hotel of America by the National Trust for Historic Preservation, the American Queen Anne building features wide verandas and bay windows topped by a distinctive turret. The interior, accented with leaded and stained glass windows and skylights, has been restored to its original elegance, and furnished with period reproductions. Under the guidance of the Historic District Plan of 1997, the Jekyll Island Club continues to regain its legacy as Georgia's most elegant resort. The historic Crane and Cherokee cottages received complete renovations, reopening in March, 2001. The $4.3 million renovations converted the two Italian Renaissance style buildings into upscale meeting and event spaces, while adding 23 rooms to the Jekyll Island Club's overnight accommodations. The architectural firm overseeing the work, Smith Dalia, LLC. of Atlanta, went to enormous lengths to retain the original architectural features and floorplans while bringing the buildings into the 21st century.The 81-year-old Crane Cottage and 94-year-old Cherokee presented many challenges to the restorers, not least of which was repairing the damage caused by 50 years of use as state-owned office buildings. Smith Dalia and the interior design team of Sims Patrick Studio, Inc., also from Atlanta, used old photos and letters to insure that the result remained true to the ambiance enjoyed by the cottage's original owners. The results, as I discovered on a recent visit, are indeed spectacular.The beautifully refitted cottages offer luxurious accommodations, while the public rooms provide a lovely setting for any event. Many groups book the cottages for executive retreats and family reunions.
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The resort is also a popular location for weddings.On the Hotel grounds, just steps away from the renovated cottages, the Faith Chapel is available for couples who desire a church service. Built by Club members in 1904, the chapel is graced with an exquisite Tiffany window, the perfect setting for an exchange of vows. The hotel's romantic Turret Suite, complete with private jacuzzi and a telescope to study the stars, makes a special honeymoon retreat. The Crane Cottage, the most expensive and elaborate cottage ever built at the Club, resembles an Italian palazzo the Crane family admired on a trip abroad. Beautiful arcaded loggias accented with wrought-iron grillwork surround an interior courtyard, which the renovation has turned into a delightful restaurant, serving a Mediterranean-tinged menu for lunch each day, from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. The food service staff can also transform the courtyard into a dramatic party space, with buffet tables loaded with lavish dishes encircling the central fountain. History is found everywhere at Jekyll, even in the bathrooms.The Crane Cottage was originally built by the founding family of the Crane Bathroom Fixture Company, and featured a record number of elaborately fitted out baths for the time. In an interesting footnote to the renovation, the company, still in business today, agreed to provide new bath fixtures for the cottages, resulting in a charming combination of new and antique features. Once open only in the winter months, the Jekyll Island Club now welcomes visitors year-round.The island boasts 63 holes of golf in its 7.5 mile length, including the historic Oceanside 9, where some holes were laid out in 1898, and the demanding Oleander course, a Dick Wilson design ranked among the best courses in Georgia. The 13 clay courts of the Jekyll Island Tennis Center are among the country's best municipal facilities, according to Tennis Magazine. Biking on 22 miles of trails, inshore and off-shore fishing, and sea-kayaking are other sports readily enjoyed by Jekyll visitors. One uniquely historic pastime available to Jekyll Island guests is croquet.Described as "genteel, yet demanding," this game depends more on planning and precision than strength, making it perfect for all age groups. The hotel's specially constructed greensward frequently hosts tournament play, and the use of croquet equipment is complimentary to guests of the hotel. During the warm months of the year, Jekyll teams with activity. Night walks along the beach to sight endangered sea turtles coming on shore to nest is one of the most popular pastimes. Cruises leaving from the Jekyll Wharf, where millionaires' yachts once docked, introduce the area's large population of dolphins, who seem to enjoy entertaining the tourists. The resort offers a special "Club Juniors" program that takes kids 5-12 on these adventures and many others, Monday through Friday, during the summer. For visitors who want to know more about the island's history, the Museum Visitor Center runs 90-minute tram tours through the historic district. The tour includes visits to the Moss, Mistletoe, Indian Mound and Dubignon Cottages, giving an upclose look at how the millionaires once lived. In addition, the Goodyear Cottage is open to the public as an art gallery. Other club buildings now house gift shops, among them the old club infirmary, now a fascinating book and antique shop. As it did at the turn of the century, the evening brings the highlight of the day at Jekyll.As the sun sinks over the western marshes, guests gather for an elaborate afternoon tea. Later, the Club's elegant dining room provides the backdrop for a gourmet menu. Taking its inspiration from Victorian menus served at the Club, the menu features low-country cuisine such as Georgia white shrimp and fresh crab, as well as classic preparations of beef, lamb, veal, and duck. Visit the club's website www.jekyllclub.com for the chef's recipe for Low Country Gumbo. More info is available at www.jekyllclub.com or call 800-535-9547. |
origininally published in Square Dancing Today, 2003.
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