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The wide circumference of the crinoline American Day Dress, ca.1860-1865 almost swallows the accompanying Child’s Dress, ca. 1850-1855.

Mint Museum of Art

Eight mid 19th century crinoline fashions, featuring wide hoop skirts, from the Mint Museums costume collection are on display in the Crist Gallery through May 30, 2004.

In the 1840s, horsehair (crin in French) underpinnings made their first appearance, allowing women’s skirts to expand without having to wear multiple layers of petticoats. By the late 1850s, cage crinolines, constructed of a series of horizontal steel or whalebone hoops, became quite popular. Cage crinolines were lighter and offered the wearer greater freedom of movement, but there were disadvantages. As the silhouette increased in width, women found themselves confronting obstacles in the form of normal-sized doorways, not to mention the hazards of knocking over furniture or the threat of fire from flammable fabrics brushing too close to fireplaces.

With so many challenges to crinoline wearers, the cage crinoline soon became the object of social criticism and satires. Nevertheless, women of all classes embraced the fashion with fervor. In the 1860s, skirts with a circumference measuring 18 feet were not uncommon. The wearer’s desires, activities and wealth dictated the circumference of her skirt. The richer the lady, the wider the hoops. By the late 1860s, the fullness of the skirt began to move to the back of the dress forming a sweeping train. By the 1870s, the bustle replaced cage crinolines as the most popular feminine shape.

The hoop style made for spectacular fashion at social gatherings as illustrated by this Summer Party Dress (American, ca.1845-1855) made of white cotton organdy muslin with bobbin and eyelet lace over a white linen bodice lining from Fashions of the Crinoline Era, 1840 – 1865.

Text and Pictures courtesy of
the Mint Museum of Art.

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